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An All American Crafts Publication

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October 2014 • Issue 193

Features

Textile Fusion, the Mixed Media World of Suzann Thompson ... 17

Ladies Who Launch, by Daryl Brower

Texturizing Stitches 21

by Marija Zagarins

Crafted by Hand, Knit by Machine 24

There's More to Knitting Here than just Sticks and String, by Marija Zagarins

Finish Line: The Mattress Stitch 26

For Invisible Seaming, by Margaret Radcliffe

Out Is In 34

Right Side or Wrong? Either Works! by Lorna Miser

The Inspiration of Peruvian Textiles 51

Motifs Abound, by Nancy J Thomas

Patty's Purls of Wisdom 98

Projects

The Knit and Crochet Collection

1. Amelia KnitTunic 14

2. Amelia Crocheted Tunic 15

Textile Fusion

3. Quilted Portfolio 16

Mid-Gauge Machine Magic

4. Moto Jacket 20

Outside In

5. Intensity Jacket 30

6. Soft Impact Capelet-Cowl 32

7. Broadband Pullover 33

8. In Is Out Neckerchief 35

Knits That Slim

9. Sidelined Skirt 36

10. HighriseVest 37

1 1. Two by Two Tunic 38

12. Diamond Slim 39

Mixology

13. Imagination Topper 40

14. Triple Treat Cowl 42

15. CellularTheory 43

Red All Over

16. Embraced 44

17. Flare 46

18. Heat 47

19. Sun Lace Wrap 48

20. Fired Up Pullover 49

Andean Inspiration

21. Taquile Island Felted Tote 50

Alpaca Rules for the Guys

22. Cool Weather Cap 52

23. Cooler Weather Cap 52

24. Mosaic Vest 53

25. Fair Isle Scarf 54

26. Ad Infinitim 55

27. Tweed Country 56

Also...

From Your Editor 4

Have You Read? 8,10

Have You Seen? 12

Have You Read?

Remember to Think Pink
in October.

The Art of Ftift:
fottftd footuitar hr famtlUe

The Art of Feifs: Felted
Footwear for Families

(eBook)
by Cat Bordhi
WWW. catbordhi . com

Feifs is Cat Bordhi’s invented
word for this family of felted foot-
wear inspired by an old European
tradition using folded squares
to clothe a foot. Cat walks you
through the art of felfing, knitting
flat in garter stitch, sewn, and
then felted, to creating whimsical
pieces of footwear. 15 designs
await you in this book from ballet
shoes, moccasins and even cow-
boy boots. But equally important
is the fact that 100 % (that’s
right, all) of the proceeds from
Cat’s eBook goes directly to the
cancer research lab of Dr. David
Krag at the University of Vermont
Medical School. You can read all
about Dr. Krag’s groundbreaking
work at SDICancerResearch.org.

The Knowledgeable Knitter

by Margaret Radcliffe
Storey Publishing
WWW. storey, com

Transform your knitting into polished,
perfectly fitting garments with this
guide from knitting expert Margaret
Radcliffe. Margaret thoroughly ex-
plains the “why” behind every knitting
technique and every challenge, from
modifying necklines to fixing dropped
stitches and creating sleek edges and
seams. Included is how to identify a
well- written pattern, evaluate schemat-
ics, revise a pattern to fit you perfectly,
and make adjustments. Knitters of all
levels will love this book and what it
will do for their knitting confidence!

The Knitter's Notebook

Chronicle Books
www.chroniclebooks.com

This classic notebook is the perfect
carry-along size to keep in your knitting
bag. Keep track of each project and al-
ways have your notes of what’s in your
stash, from needles to yarn. Also handy
is the comprehensive reference section
to help troubleshoot any potential
challenges that may arise including tips
on how to take accurate measurements,
how to create a complete schematic,
and more. The back also includes a
useful pocket for wayward notes. This
notebook is truly an invaluable tool for
knitters of all levels.

knitstyle I October 2014

Have You Read?

Up, Down, All-Around
Stitch Dictionary

By Wendy Bernard
STC Craft/A Melanie Falick Book
WWW. melaniefalickbooks . com

Knit Socks!

17 Classic Patterns

New Vintage Lace:
Knits Inspired By the Past

by Andrea Jurgrau
Interweave Press
www.interweave.com

These are definitely not grandma’s
doilies. This book offers 18 fully-chart-
ed projects that have been altered and
adopted into modern accessories more
suited to updated tastes and fashions.
Projects include hats, various size
shawls, scarves, and wraps, all inspired
by traditional lace doily patterns.
Andrea explains the particulars of lace
knitting, how to read charts, different
ways of adding beads, plus how to
properly block your finished project
into a beautiful work of wearable art.

b»*:W *«a I

This robust collection contains instruc-
tions for 150 popular stitch patterns,
however, author Wendy Bernard has
done something no author has done
before; she presents instructions for
working each pattern four different
ways up, down, back-and-forth, and
in the round! Stitch patterns include
lace and cables, plus colorwork and
fancy edges. This is an invaluable go-to
resource for knitters looking to spice up
their stitching.

for Cozy Feet

by Betsy Lee McCarthy
Storey Publishing
WWW. storey, com

Keeping your toes warm, comfort-
able — and beautiful — has never been
so easy. Now in a paperback edition
that you can easily take with you, this
best-selling book is better than ever.
Inside you’ll find 17 classic and colorful
sock patterns and expert advice on
choosing the most appropriate sock
yam for the pattern. Find out what
fibers feel great, what really lasts, and
what holds its shape the best. Plus,
easily learn how to substitute a different
yarn that’s specified in a pattern with
a handy chart that provides alternative
yam weights. Gorgeous photography
accompanies each easy-to-read pattern.
The only hard part is figuring out what
to cast on first!

10 • knitstyle I October 2014

Melissa Leapman's

Knit &

Crochet

Collectior

Knit

1 * High-low hemlines create
a super-slimming look, and
Melissa Leapman makes it happen
for both knitters and crocheters.

Her Amelia Knit Pullover,
stitched in Brown Sheep's Cotton
Fleece, makes use of a 4-row
colorwork slip stitch pattern.
Pattern: page 58.

14 • knitstyle I October 2014

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October 201 4 I knitstyle *15

• For Melissa's Amelia
Crocheted Pullover,

she also used Brown
Sheep's Cotton Fleece

in a 6-row repeat color
pattern.

Pattern: page 59.

Textile artist Suzann
Thompson knows
how to expertly work
her nnixed media designs
but also knows how to
Introduce knitters to
the process, which she
does with her Quilted
Portfolio, lined in flannel^
then quilted. Suzann "^
used Dale Gam's Falk,
distributed by Mango
Moon.

Pattern: page 6 1

Mid Gauge Machine Magic

Texturizing Stitches

BY Mary Anne Oger

S tockinette knitting is simple,
easy, fast on the machine, but,
can be boring. Even with a
multi-coloured yarn it can be
humdrum. Looking at the purl side of
stockinette fabric may liven it up a bit,
but still not be quite what you’d like.

Purl side of stockinette

Try adding some texture to change it
up.

There are the usual tuck stitches
(see sample 3). An alternating 1X1
tuck pattern is simple and adds texture

Knit side of 1X1 Tuck

with a consistent thickness and a rela-
tively smooth face.

Notice how the tuck breaks up the
horizontal stacking stripes and adds
a second or third colour into the row,
depending of the length and variety of
the colours in the yarn.

These samples have all been made
with the same yarn, Skacel’s Zitron
Patina Multi, vintage quilt colorway,
which has multiple shades of gray and
raspberry.

Slip/Tuck

In ‘Moto Jacket’, this issue (see
page 20), the stitch pattern is a combi-
nation of slip and tuck that cannot be
duplicated without manual patterning.
Slip stitch floats are achieved by set-
ting the carriage to hold and bringing
out the first selection of needles, 5 in
this case. When the row is knit, the
yarn ‘floats’ over the needles in hold
position. The outside needle of each
group is pushed back to upper work-
ing position (C) and when the second
row is knit, those 2 stitches will be
knit back with the first float tucked
and another float of 3 needles wide
is formed over the remaining held
needles. The third row repeats moving
the 2 outside needles back and they
are again tucked as the row is knit. On
the fourth row of the sequence, the last
held stitch is placed in C position to be
knit and tucked back with the 3 floats
to finalize the small, raised chevron
that forms from the floats and tucks.

The next four rows of the pattern
are repeated with the alternating group
of needles to complete the pattern.
This pattern can be varied by changing
the number of stitches/needles held
(5, 7, 9 etc), spacing them wider apart

and adding plain rows between the
alternating repeat.

Another variation of Slip/Tuck is
the ‘Angle’ pattern below. It is a 14 st
X 12 row repeat that creates a thicker,
sloped line because it is carried over
more stitches and rows.

This can also be varied by changing
the spacing between the right angle
triangles of the pattern repeat.

Slip/Tuck Angles, purl side

The knit side of these fabrics can
offer interesting options as well as they
have a smoother side and the colour
stacking is quite different from plain
stockinette or the purl side texture.

Slip/Tuck Angles, knit side

October 2014 I knitstyle « 21

(M n ^

Chart 1: Slip/Tuck Angle (14 stsX 12
rows) Chart

Pinched Stitches

Another way of adding surface
texture to knitted fabric is ‘pick up’
or ‘pinched’ stitches where a group
of stitches are lifted from a few rows
below, making a small pintuck. This
method of ruching adds another di-
mension to the knit side and modifies
the look of the purl side of the fabric.

To knit this fabric, following chart
2, knit to row 8. With 3 prong tool,
pick up three stitches from row 4 just
below needles marked on row 8 of
chart. Knit to row 12 and repeat on
alternately spaced marked needles.
Repeat throughout. This technique can
also be varied by altering the number

V-/

^cocMrH^csiro^

Chart 2: Pick Up Chart, 8 stsX 16 rows

of needles and rows between the pick
ups.

Notes for Moto Jacket

The point of developing the tex-
tured stitch pattern for Moto Jacket
was not only to change up the color
stacking of the yarn but to have a
fabric that looked good both purl side
and knit side. The lapels that are cre-
ated when the snaps are left undone,
fold back to show the knit side, which
should look as interesting as the right
side of the fabric. Choice of finishing
technique for the edges of the fabric
becomes equally important for the
same reason. The edges need to look
good from both sides but they have
to provide the function of preventing
the edges from curling too much from

Knit side of Pick Up Stitch

Purl side of Pick Up Stitch

22 = knitstyle I October 2014

both ways as well.

When looking for the snaps, choose
ones that will blend in with the color
of yarn as they will look better on the
finished fabric, whether they are open
or closed. The snaps used in Moto
Jacket are a semi-transparent plastic
(18 cm/ 5/8 inch), which looked better
than a metal snap but were still large
enough to hold the pieces closed for
the weight of the garment.

Swatch and play around, invent
something of your own. Try texturiz-
ing your next knitting project!

Symbols used in charts

f needle returned to UWP, knits back
tucking float

I I purl stitch, side facing on machine
^ stitch to be lifted

place lifted stitch from 4 rows below
needle placed in hold, float forms

Instructor and designer
Mary Anne Oger is well-
known for her classic,
wearable machine knit
designs and her knack for
adding common sense and
humor to machine knitting.

She is adept in textures and great finishing
techniques which can be used by all machine
knitters, any gauge, all machines. With many
seminar and workshop credits all over North
America, her teaching skills are undisputed. As
editor Ipublisher of ‘KNITWORDS’ magazine
for 13 years, Mary Anne has set high industry
standards for quality work in machine
knitting. She makes her home in Thunder Bay,
Ontario, Canada and can be reached through
her website at www.knitwords.com where you
can find her machine knitting blog, providing
hints, tips, patterns and inspiration for all
machine knitters.

Finish Line:

The Mattress Stitch

T his is the second in a series
of articles on finishing your
handknits. In the June 2014
issue, I discussed how to work
the edge stitches on your knitting so that
it's easy to seam and pick up stitches
consistently and neatly The key here is
consistency If the edges are consistent,
then it's easier to pick up stitches and sew
seams, and they'll look nice and neat.

Getting Started

At the beginning of a seam, there
tends to be a little gap at the edge of
the fabric. To prevent this and make
a smooth edge where the two cast-on
corners meet, work a figure-8 to begin
your seam. With the right side facing
you, sew from back to front through
the corner on one side of the seam, do
the same on the opposite corner, then
once more into the first corner. This
will fill in the edge and if you’re careful
you can make it look very similar to
the cast-on edge on either side.

First sew through one corner from back
to front, then through the other corner to
make a figure-8.

Seaming in Stockinette Stitch

A very important factor in working
mattress stitch successfully is to avoid
slipped stitches along the edge of
your knitting. When you plan to use
mattress stitch to join the seams, work

the edge stitches in stockinette. Then
you’ll be able to sew the seams the
same way, regardless of whether the

r..' jsu. . A.

Mattress stitch in stockinette. From top
to bottom: 1 ) sew under two strands, a
whole stitch away from the edge; 2) do the
same on the opposite side; 3) continue to
alternate, sewing under two strands and
inserting the needle into the same spot
where it exited the last time.

rest of the fabric has been worked in a
pattern stitch or in plain stockinette.

After you work the figure-8 at the
beginning of the seam, continue to
alternate from side to side, working a
whole stitch away from the edge, in-
serting your needle under two strands,
entering and exiting the fabric on the
right side. Each strand is one row of
knitting, so you are sewing under two
rows each time. Once you get the seam
started, you’ll always insert the needle
into the same spot where it exited the
fabric the last time. Pull firmly on your
sewing yarn after each stitch to draw
the two sides of the seam together.

Seaming in Ribbing

As 1 discussed in the previous
article, it’s important to plan your edge
stitches in ribbing to get good results
when you seam. Mattress stitch in
K2P2 ribbing is worked exactly the
same as in stockinette, as long as you
have a full, 2-stitch knit rib at both
edges of the ribbing.

In KlPl ribbing, you have two
choices. You can work the ribbing on
an odd number of stitches, placing a
single knit stitch at each edge and sew-
ing mattress stitch a half stitch away
from the edge instead of a full stitch.
Sewing this way through the center of
the edge stitch, you’ll notice that loose
stitches alternate with tighter ones,
every other row. Each time you sew
under two rows, your needle will enter
and exit the same kind of stitch — ei-
ther a loose one every time, or a tight
one. In a loosely knit fabric, sewing
through the loose stitches may leave
gaps along the seam; if this happens,
make a point of sewing through the
tighter stitches.

You may also work the ribbing on
an even number of stitches, placing a
single knit stitch at one edge and two
knit stitches at the other. When you

26 • knitstyle I August 2014

Mattress stitch worked a half stitch from the edge in KlPl ribbing. From top to bottom:
1) sew under two strands, a half stitch away from the edge; 2) do the same on the
opposite side; 3) continue to alternate, sewing under two strands and inserting the
needle into the same spot where it exited the last time.

Mattress stitch in K2P2 ribbing is worked
identically to mattress stitch in stockinette.

Seaming in Garter Stitch

If you work a garter stitch fabric
with stockinette stitch edges, you
can use mattress stitch to join the
seams, but the results are not always
satisfactory. Each individual row of
stockinette is taller than a row of garter
stitch. If the knitting is very loose, this
may not be a problem, but if it’s firm,
the seams will be too long and distort
the fabric. Instead of mattress stitch.

Mattress stitch worked a whole stitch from
the edge in KlPl ribbing.

1 find it works better to seam garter
stitch by sewing through either the
“smiles” in the ridges or the tiny bump
at the edge of each ridge, alternating
from one side of the seam to the other.
Be careful to adjust the tension of your
sewing so the strands that cross the
seam are the same size as the stitches
on either side.

continued on page 28

Seams in garter are best sewn through the
''smiles, alternating from side to side.

October 2014 I knitstyle • 27

For a less bulky, reversible seam in garter
stitch, sew through the little bump at the
end of each ridge.

Strong Seams

For a stronger seam, you can sew
mattress stitch every row rather than
every other row To do this, sew under

just one strand with each stitch instead
of two. This will take twice as long to
complete, but the result will be a more
substantial seam.

Long Seams

Long seams can be a challenge be-
cause, even though you begin with the
edges even and do your best to match
the two pieces row-by-row, they may
not actually be the same length, or
you may find yourself off by a row or
two at the end of the seam. To prevent
this, use safety pins to join the edges
at the beginning and end of the seam,
and every few inches along the whole
seam. Place the safety pins across
the seam so that when the rows are
lined up properly, the safety pins are
horizontal. As you work, pay attention
to the angle of the pins. If they start
leaning to one side or the other, you’ll
need to make adjustments. On the
low side, occasionally work under just
one row (one strand) in your mattress
stitch, while continuing to work under

two rows on the opposite side, until
the pins are horizontal again.

The sleeve and side seams of a
sweater are usually worked at the same
time and are the longest seams. It can
be a challenge to make them come
out even. Start at bottom edge of each
and work toward the underarm. If
the seam doesn’t meet perfectly at the
underarm, no one will know!

Editor's tip: When seaming a sweater
knitted in a heavily textured yarn, use
a smooth yarn for seaming. With the
mattress stitch, it will be invisible.

Margaret Radcliffe is
author of the best
selling Knitting Answer
\ il^ Book, The Essential

Guide to Color Knitting
Techniques, and Circular
Knitting Workshop, all
from Storey Publishing.

Her fourth book, The

Knowledgeable Knitter, will be released in
August 2014. www.MaggiesRags.com.

SEWING BOOK!

Create your own apron memories! You’ll
find everything you need in Sewing
Vintage Aprons to make an apron that
reminds you of Mom or Grandma and to
start your own tradition with fun prints
and bold trims!

* 5 fulLlength aprons, 6 half aprons,
and 4 kitchen accessories

* FulLsize pullout patterns ^

* A sewing how-to section with detailed
instructions for every step

80 pages • soft cover
$16.95 plus s&th.

To order your copy TODAY,
call (973) 347^6900 ext. 115

or see

www.allamericancrafts
mall.com/collections/books/
products/sewing- V in tage - aprons

L et's let Laura describe
her process in her
own words:

Once in a while a
design comes along that
begs to have unusual
techniques, the Intensity
reversible jacket is one
such design. When Cari
suggested a theme of
doubles, I immediately
thought of a stitch I had
developed earlier in
the year. When worked
in one color, it mimics
ruching done on woven
fabrics by sewing rows
of stitches that are then
pulled to gather the
fabric. In knitting, this
is done very simply by
slipping separated stitch-
es in columns for many
rows. When the stitches .

are knitted, it pulls up the
rowsof knitting between
the slipped stitches. To
keep the slipped stitches
neat and tidy, the stitch-
es are twisted as they
are worked, providing
a raised ridge along the
purl side. The knit side
reads simply as magi-
cally ruffled fabric, with
the slipped columns not
apparent.

This is a special year
for Prism Yarns and its
owner, Laura Bryant, who
started her company
in 1984. Celebrating
thirty years of creating
color and inspiring
stitchers, Laura and her
company remain one of
the strongest supporters
of our industry as a
whole. She is ever ready
to answer questions,
volunteer to help out
and cheer on anyone
involved in knit and
crochet.

30 « knitstyle I October 2014

5 * Just when you
thought there
was nothing new,
Laura Bryant comes
up with just that: a
new technique. Her
reversible Intensity
Jacket, designed
in three colors of
Prism Yarn's Petite
Madison, is truly a
knockout, no matter
which side you wear *
as the out-side.

For detailed
instructions and
photos of Laura's
technique, goto:
www.knitstylemag.
com/issues/2014/
index_193.shtml
Pattern: page 64.

6 * Slip stitch
patterns are so
interesting no matter
which side is showing

and Leslie Roth% Soft
Impact Capelet Cowl

shows just that. Using
KFI/Mirasol's Nuna, a

yarn with an incredible
drape, allows the
to use it as a
capelet or
doubled as a cowl.
page 67.

By Lorna Miser

R ecently some trendy ready-to-wear garments have
shown the wrong side of Fair Isle, the side with
long floats, on the right side. Why not? There are no
rules, so give it a try! Here are some tips for success.

Choose yarn that has "grip'' and can be blocked

This is not the project for cotton or slippery yarns. Wool
or wool blends (not Superwash) will hold each other and
help the floats look consistent. Steam blocking can be help-
ful for curling edges so stick with natural fibers.

Start with just two colors

It’s much easier to manage two colors per row. Find your
favorite method for keeping them separate; one in each
hand or one over separate fingers. Most importantly, keep

them in the same
order throughout the
project.

Choose a bold
or "obvious"

Fair Isle pattern

A snowflake or
animal shape won’t
show up on the
Boat side. Geomet-
ric shapes work
well. Also, choose
a fair isle that uses
both colors equal-
ly or frequently.

If one color is
dominant, the
other one won’t
have many
floats to display.

Practice on a swatch

Play with different edgings on your swatch. Depending
on how you carry your yarns, you may have success by
keeping 1-2 edge stitches in one color. Another option is
to catch both colors in the edge stitch, locking both colors
regardless of where the pattern ends. It’s up to you but be
consistent throughout.

Blocking and finishing

Weave in the ends under the Boats but not so they
show on the knit side. Alternatively, work the ends over
stitches as in duplicate stitch. Wet block or steam block to
really pull the Boats out width wise. If the edges don’t look
as perfect as hoped, be creative with them. Pick up stitches
to knit an edging, crochet an edge to cover uneven Boats ,
or roll an edge in and sew it down. Tied-on fringe also can
cover 1-2 stitches along an edge.

Wear it

Trying this technique will improve your fair skills as
you practice making both sides look nice. Now you can
wear either side as the outside!

34 • knitstyle I August 2014

and knitted fabric

Lorna Miser's Out is

In Neckerchief done in

LB Collection's Angora

Merino, keeps a neck

toasty - plus you can wear

her design on either side.

Pattern: page 69

August 2014 I knitstyle • 35

KNITS THAT

Knits can have the wonderful
benefit of making us visually
lose pounds. A group of
designers show just how it
can work for you.

What took us so long to discover
the slenderizing effect that dark side
panels have? Our own Heather Lodinsky
created her Sidelined Skirt using Tahki
Stacy Charles/Filatura Tempo for the
tweed slip-stitch center panel and Zara for
the solid sides to great effect.

Pattern: page 70

36 - knitstyle I August 2014

Nothing slims
like an elongated
vest, especially one with
fabulous cables running
top to bottom. Patty
Lyons used Berroco's
Vintage for her
HighriseVest.

Pattern: page 71

August 2014 i knitstyle ^ 37

Vertical stripes are
another way to lend
a visual slimming effect to a
design. Another way is using
them in a tunic design, our
Two by Two Tunic Card! by
Nazanin Fard, stitched in
KFI/Ella Rae Lace Merino
Worsted.

Pattern: page 73

38 knitstyle I August 2014

With just a bit of curvy
dit ribbed shaping, Patty
Lyons created a visual waist nip in

her Diamond Slim Sweater. The

subtle heather shading of Yarn
Sisters/Zealana's Heron gives the
perfect shadowing effect.

Pattern: page 75

August 2014 F knitstyle 39

• Margret
Willson's

Imagination
Topper uses a totally
reversible stitch
pattern for the body
of her vest in Manos
del Uruguay/
Fairmont Fibers'
Maxima and accents
it with a contrasting
yarn, Fino, for the
ribbed edges, one of
the easiest and best
ways to start working
with two different
yarns in a single
garment.

Pattern: page 77

40 knitstyle I August 2014

Using two or more different weights of
yarns in one design enables designers to be
amazingly creative by being challenged -
and you're the winner!

August 2014 i knitstyle 41

H * Trendsetter is an

amazing source for
widely varied yarns and
Ashley Rao used three of
them in her Triple Treat
Cowl: Checkmate, Dune
and Dutchess. Ashley used
traditional Fair Isle dotted
with purl stitches for effect.
Pattern: page 79

August 201 4 knitstyle 43

^ p • Pairing a DK weight yarn with a
I J lace weight yarn, Laura Zukaite
came up with a remarkable design that
resembles cellular configurations, hence

Cellular Theory Sweater. Laura's
design is worked in Classic Elite's
Magnolia and Silky Alpaca Lace.

Pattern: page 80

Red is solid, strong,
determined -and
wearable by just
about anyone. This
is a story about how
these color attributes
translate into knits.

^ • Call it a vest, call

I w it a wrap or call it
an exaggerated scarf, but
Embraced, designed by

Gloria Tracy, is nothing
if not versatile, so much
so that we had to give
its options two pages.
The hand dyed yarn is
Acquerello from Aurora
Yarns.

Pattern: page 82

We love our knitted
skirts, especially
this one, Flare, that's the
perfect length for any size
or age, the perfect stitch
pattern of ribs with mini-
cables, and, of course, the
perfect color. Designed by
Shirley MacNulty in SWTCs
Bamboo.

Pattern: page 83

jjHpB

Wm'\9

With its subtle
scalloped edging created
by a change to the 8-row lace
pattern, Shirley MacNulty
created her Sun Lace Wrap
using Crabapple Yarns' Pizazz
Fingering.

Pattern: page 86

^ ^ Moyer used

V Plymouth Yarns' Baby
Alpaca DK and Monte Donegal
Hand Dyed yarns for her Fired Up
Pullover. Diane used a two-color
slip stitch honeycomb pattern
for the center panels, which are
knitted first, then the stitches for
side panels and sleeves are picked
up and knitted out.

Pattern: page 87

August 2014 I knitstyle • 49

The Inspiration of Peruvian Textiles

By Nancy J Thomas

R ather than spending a great deal
of time telling you the process
involved in felting a tote bag
(you can find many options to
read or watch YouTube videos online),

1 decided it would be more interesting
to talk about the creative process that
went into my design. I hope it will
inspire you to add artistic touches to
your future knitting projects.

Wherever avid knitters travel (even
armchair travel), we find creativity and
inspiration for new projects, especially
in textiles and colors. If you go to India
or Guatemala, you are certainly going
to be inspired by the lavish fabrics and
bright colors. A trip to Ireland, Scotland
or Scandinavia where knits abound,
you’ll find a treasure trove of actual
stitch designs and patterns. Be sure to
take lots of photos as you travel so that
you can pare them up with actual proj-
ects and yarn once you return home.
Oust remember that it’s always best to
ask before shooting a photo of a person
wearing an inspiring garment.)

With many trips to the Andes “un-
der my belt”, 1 didn’t have to look far
for my inspiration. It was natural that
this travel led me to Peruvian textiles
as inspiration for my Taquile Island
Felted Tote. First, 1 turned to my
well-worn copy of Cynthia LeCount’s
long-out-of-print book Andean Folk
Knitting, Traditions and Techniques
from Peru and Bolivia to find charts of
traditional designs for my tote. This
book is highly sought after and is
extremely expensive if you can find a
second-hand copy.

But before I even choose a group of
charts, other considerations for mak-
ing a practical, yet beautiful tote were
on the table. I had to choose a yarn
that would felt easily and create a de-
sign that would make the bag durable

and longwearing.

First and foremost, I wanted to
simulate colors 1 had seen in Andean
textiles. Simply put - the colors used in
creating wovens and knits are extraordi-
nary. I’ve often pondered why the Peru-
vians use such incredible colors in their
designs. My opinion is that they want
to stand out in a neutral environment.
The landscape of the Andes is mostly
green and brown with snow-capped
mountains. On my visits, we often
traveled high into the mountains to visit
native people. The villagers were always
wearing vibrant ponchos, belts, and
hats that added what otherwise would
have been a bleak and dreary land.

But 1 wanted to use subtle shades
that would echo some of the homespun

Peruvian Taquile Cap

and hand-dyed pieces 1 had seen in
projects they wore or sold. I especially
wanted a good shade of red, brick and
gold. I found the colors of the Tahki’s
Donegal Tweed perfect for the project.

My second reason for choosing the
patterning for my bag (other than the
beautiful designs) was that the color
patterning added strength to knitted
pieces that would eventually be felted.
The floats in the back of the design
from the Fair Isle patterning added a
wonderful layer that made the finished
bag incredibly sturdy. If you notice, 1
even used a double strand of striped
garter stitch along the bottom of the bag
to increase the durability of the bag.

ir ■ * - S V**

My bag just prior to felting.

Handles for a felted bag always
should be considered wisely. I wanted
to create a very traditional bag and
original thought the touch of adding a
woven Peruvian belt would be perfect
as handles (see belts shown on the left
in the photo of pieces before felting),
but, in the end, purchased leather
handles seemed like a better idea.

Pre-felted Pieces

Nancy J Thomas

In her long-time career,

Nancy was past editor
of Vogue Knitting and
Knitter’s Magazines. She
was also Creative Director
for Tahki Stacy Charles,

Lion Brand Yarns and Red
Heart Yarns. In a slightly more relaxed life,
she attends knitting/crochet shows, designs and
slogs through her massive yarn stash! She blogs
at nancyjthomas.wordpress.com

October 2014 I knitstyle * 51

Alpaca-soft, sturdy, and often a product of
Nancy Thomas' favorite travel destination of
Peru-is also the perfect fiber, whether dyed or
in its natural color, for projects for guys.

• Knitoneforearlyfall, then knit
another for later fall. Make Leslie
Roth's Cool Weather Cap, knit using
Cascade's Alpaca Lana d'Oro, a size 4/
worsted weight for early fall.

Pattern: page 90

• Then knit Leslie's Cooler Weather Cap, knit in
Cascade's Cloud, a totally different construction

and slightly heavier yarn, for late fall.
Pattern: page 90

52 knitstyle August 2014

Schmerl's Mosaic
Vest conveys a feeling
of relaxation with it's
repetitive swirl patterning
and guy-perfect color
palette in Blue Sky
Aipaca^s Alpaca Sport
Weight yarn.

Pattern: page 91

Subtle stitching is also
evident in Olga Casey's long
and versatile Fair Isle Scarf, stitched
in Knit One Crochet Too's Elfin
Tweed and Kettle Tweed yarns.
Pattern: page 93

October 2014 ■ knitstyle 55

'/£v> >■

■<

^ ^ • The subtle
/ stitching

of Diane Moyer's
Tweed Country
Vest is enhanced
with the alpaca
in Dale Garn/
Mango Moon's
Alpakka yarn. An
easy two-color
slip stitch pattern
creates the look.
Pattern: page 95

iimm

56 • knitstyle I October 2014

Abbre\'iations

Knit And General

“ inches

approx . . . .approximately

beg begin(ning)(s)

BO bind off

cm centimeter(s)

cn cable needle

CO cast on

dec decrease(s)

DK double knitting weight

dpn(s) double pointed needle(s)

g gram(s)

inc increase(s)

k knit

kl-tbl knit 1 through the back

loop

k2tog knit 2 stitches together

(1 stitch decrease)

k3tog knit 3 stitches together

(2 stitch decrease)

kf&b knit into front and back

of the same stitch
(1 stitch increase)

kwise knitwise

LH left hand

lp(s) loop(s)

m meter

Ml make 1 knit stitch

(1 stitch increase)

MIL . . .insert LH needle from
front to back under
strand between sts, knit
through back of loop
(1 stitch increase)

M1P make 1 purl stitch

(1 stitch increase)

MIR insert LH needle from

back to front under strand
between sts, knit through
front of loop
(1 stitch increase)

mm millimeter(s)

oz ounce(s)

p purl

p1-tbl purl 1 through the back

loop

p2tog purl 2 stitches together

ll stitch decrease)

patt(s) pattem(s)

pf&b purl into front and back

of the same stitch

pm place marker

psso pass slipped stitch over

pwise purlwise

rem remain(ing)(s)

rep repeat

rev St St. . . .reverse Stockinette stitch

RH right hand

rib ribbing

rnd{s) round(s)

RS right side

sk skip

skp slip, knit, pass slipped

stitch over (1 stitch
decrease)

sk2p slip 1, knit 2 together,

pass slipped stitch over
(2 stitch decrease)

si slip

sm slip marker

sp(s) space(s)

ssk slip 2 stitches, one at a

time, kwise to RH needle,
insert LH needle into
the front of both slipped
stitches and knit them as
one stitch
(1 stitch decrease)

ssp slip 2 sts, one at a time,

kv^se to RH needle,
return to LH needle in
new orientation and purl
them tog through back
loops.

sssk slip, slip, slip, knit these 3

stitches together
(2 stitch decrease)

St St Stockinette stitch

st(s) stitch(es)

tbi through the back loops

tog together

w&t wrap and turn

WS wrong side

wyib with yam in back

wyif with yam in front

yb . . .yam back

yd yard(s)

yfwd yam forward

yo yam over

[ ] work instmctions within

brackets as many times as
directed

0 work instmctions within

parentheses into same
stitch

* or ** repeat instmctions

following the asterisk(s)
as directed

Crochet Stitches

BL backloop(s)

BP back post

BPdc back post double crochet

BPsc back post single crochet

BPtr back post treble crochet

ch chain

ch-sp refers to chain-space

previously made

dc double crochet

dc2tog . . . .double crochet 2 stitches
together

dtr double treble crochet

FL front loop

FP front post

FPdc front post double crochet

FPsc front post single crochet

FPtr front post treble crochet

hdc half double crochet

sc single crochet

sc2tog single crochet 2 stitches

together

si St slip stitch(es)

tr treble crochet

trtr triple treble crochet

Basic Pattern Stitches

Garter Stitch:

In Rows: Knit every row.

In Rounds: Knit 1 round, purl 1 round.

Stockinette Stitch (St st):

In Rows: Knit on RS, purl on WS.
In Rounds: Knit every round.

Reverse Stockinette Stitch (rev St st):

In Rows: Purl on RS, knit on WS.

In Rounds: Purl every round.

Skill Levels

Beginner

Easy

■ □D

I Intermediate

Experienced

Projects for first-time knitters using
basic knit and purl stitches. Minimal
shaping.

Projects using basic stitches,
repetitive stitch patterns, simple
color changes, and simple shaping
and finishing.

Projects with a variety of stitches,
such as basic cables and lace, simple
intarsia, double-pointed needles and
knitting in the round techniques,
mid-level shaping and finishing.

Projects using advanced techniques
and stitches, such as short rows, fair
isle, more intricate intarsia, cables,
lace patterns and numerous color
changes.

Knitting Needles Conversion

:ric (mm)

10 .

'5.

:5.

lO.

Metric (mm) US

Metric (mm)

, . 0

4.25 . . .

8.00

. 11

. . 1

4.50 . . .

9.00

. 13

, . 2

5.00 . . .

10.00

. 15

. . 3

5.50 . . .

13.00

. 17

. . 4

6.00 . . .

. ... 10

15.00

. 19

, . 5

6.50 . . .

. .101/2

standard Yarn Weight System

Categories of yarn, gauge ranges, and recommended needle and hook sizes

Type of Yarns in
Category

Fingering 10,
Count crochet
thread

Knit Gauge Range*
on Stockinette
Stitch to 4 inches

33-40** sts

Recommended Needle
in Metric Size Range

1.5-2.25 mm

Recommended Needle
in U.S. Size Range

000 to 1

Crochet Gauge*
Ranges in Single
Crochet to 4 Inch

32-42

double

crochets**

Recommended
Hook in Metric
Size Range

Steel***
1.6-1. 4mm
Regular hook
2.25mm

Recommended
Hook U.S. Size
Range

Steel***

6, 7, 8 Regular
hook B-1

WVm

^ 1 Pj

1^1

Super

Fine

Light

Sock,

Fingering,

Baby

Sport,

Baby

DK, Light
Worsted

27-32 sts

23-26

21-24

sts

2.25-3.25

3.25-3.75

3.75-4.5

1to3

3to5

5to7

21-32 sts

16-20 sts

12-17 sts

2.25-3.5

3.5-4.5

4.5-5.5

B-1 to

E-4

7 to 1-9

E-4

to 7

^ 4 ^

i ^ i

Medium

Bulky

Super

Bulky

Worsted,

Afghan,

Aran

Chunky,

Craft,

Rug

Bulky,

Roving

16-20 sts

12 -15 sts

6-11 sts

4.5-5.5

5.5-8 mm

8mm and
larger

7to9

9to11

11 and
larger

11-14 sts

8-11 sts

5-9 sts

5.5-6.5

6.5-9 mm

9mm and
larger

1-9 to
K-1012

K-10V2

toM-13

M-13

and

larger

* Guidelines Only: The above reflect the most commonly used gauge and needle or hook sizes for specific
yam categories.

** Lace weight yams are usually knitted or crocheted on larger needles and hooks to create lacy, openwork
patterns. Accordingly, a gauge range is difficult to determine. Always follow the gauge stated in your pattern.

*** Steel crochet hooks are sized differently from regular hooks-the higher the number, the smaller the hook,
which is the reverse of regular hook sizing.

The Standards & Guidelines booklet and downloadable symbol art are available at YarnStandards.com

October 2014 I knitstyle ' 57

1 . Amelia Knit
Pullover

As seen on page 14

Women’s S (M, L, IX, 2X, 3X):

To Fit Bust: 32-34 (34-36, 38-40, 40-42,
44-45, 46-48)”/8L5-86.5 (86.5-91.5,
96.5-101.5, 102-106.5, 112-114.5,
117-122)cm

Finished Measurements
Bust: 34 (37, 40, 43, 46, 48)”/86.5 (94,
101.5, 109, 115.5, 122)cm

13V2 (14V2 J5V2 J6V2,17, 18)"

Length: 29 (29 1/2, 29 1/2, 30, 30, 30
l/2)’’/73.5 (75, 75, 76, 76, 77.5)cm

Materials

Brown Sheep Company Cotton
Fleece (80% cotton, 20% wool;
3.5oz/100g,215yd/197m)

4 (5, 5, 5, 6, 6) skeins #760 Emperor’s
Robe (A)

3 (4, 4, 4, 5, 5) skeins #850 Berry (B)

Size 4 US (3.5mm) knitting needles
Size 6 US (4mm) knitting needles OR SIZE
TO OBTAIN GAUGE

Gauge

23 sts and 32 rows = 4”/ 10cm in

Colorwork patt using larger needles
To save time, take time to check gauge.

Designer Notes

Pullover is worked in 4 pieces. Back, Front,
and Sleeves. Neck band is worked
afterwards.

Back is 2 1/2 ’’/6.5cm longer than Front.
Always slip sts as if to purl.

When shaping the pieces, keep Colorwork
patt as established.

When working Colorwork patt, carry color
not in use loosely along WS of piece
until next needed.

Pattern Stitches

1x1 Rib (over even number of sts)

Row 1 (RS): *K1, pi; rep from * across.
Row 2: Knit the knit sts and purl the purl
sts as they face you.

Rep last row for 1x1 Rib.

Colorwork Pattern (multiple of 4 sts + 3)
Set-up Row (WS): With A, purl.

13y2(14y2,16, 17J8V2, 191 / 2 )"

131/2(141/2,16,17,181/2,191/2)"

58 • knitstyle I October 2014

Row 1: With B, *kl, si 1 wyif, k2; rep
from * to last 3 sts, kl, si 1 wyif, kl.

Row 2: With B, pi, si 1 wyif, *p3, si 1
wyif; rep from to last st, pi.

Row 3: With A, *k3, si 1 wyif; rep from *
to last 3 sts, k3.

Row 4: With A, p3, *sl 1 wyif, p3; rep
from * across.

Rep Rows 1-4 for Colorwork patt.

Instructions

BACK

With smaller needles and A, CO 78 (84,
91,98, 105, 112) sts.

Work in Garter st (k every row) for 5 rows,
increasing 13 (15, 16, 17, 18, 19) sts
evenly spaced across last row — 91 (99,
107, 115, 123, 131) sts.

Change to larger needles, work in

Colorwork patt until piece measures 4
l/2”/l 1.5cm, from beg; end with a WS
row.

End Side Vents

CO 4 sts at beg of next 2 rows — 99 (107,
115, 123, 131, 139) sts.

Work in patt until piece measures 20
l/2”/52cm from beg; end with a WS
row. Make a note of the last pattern row
worked.

Shape Armholes

BO 5 (5, 6, 6, 7, 8) sts at beg of next 2
rows— 89 (97, 103, 111, 117, 123) sts.

BO 2 (3, 3, 4, 4, 4) sts at beg of next 2
rows— 85 (91, 97, 103, 109, 115) sts.

Dec 1 st each side every row 1 (1,2, 2, 3,
3) times— 83 (89, 93, 99, 103, 109) sts

Dec 1 st each side every other row 2 (2,

2, 2, 2, 3) times— 79 (85, 89, 95, 99,
103) sts.

Work even in patt until piece measures 28

5 V 2 (6, 6’/2, 6 V 2 . 7, 7)‘

(28 1/2, 28 1/2, 29, 29, 29 1/2)771
(72.5, 72.5, 73.5, 73.5, 75)cm from
beg; end with a WS row.

Shape Shoulders

BO 5 (6, 6, 7, 8, 8) sts at beg of next 4
rows— 59 (61, 65, 67, 67, 71) sts.

BO 5 (6, 6, 7, 7, 8) sts at beg of next 2
rows— 49 (49, 53, 53, 53, 55) sts.

BO 5 (5, 7, 7, 7, 8) sts at beg of next 2
rows — 39 sts.

BO in patt.

FRONT

Work same as Back until piece measures
about 275cm from beg; end with a WS
row.

End Side Vents

CO 4 sts at beg of next 2 rows — 99 (107,
115, 123, 131, 139) sts.

Work even in patt until piece measures
18745.5cm from beg; end with same
row of patt as Back.

Shape Armholes

Work armhole shaping same as Back — 79
(85, 89, 95, 99, 103) sts.

Continue even in patt until piece measures
23 1/2 (24, 24, 24 1/2, 24 1/2,

25)759.5 (61, 61, 62, 62, 63.5)cm
from beg; end with a WS row.

Shape Neck

Work in patt across first 31 (34, 36, 39,

41, 43) sts, join 2nd ball of yarn and
BO center 17 sts, work in patt to end of
row — 31 (34, 36, 39, 41, 43) sts each
side.

Work both sides at the same time with
separate balls of yarn.

BO 4 sts at each neck edge once — 27 (30,
32, 35, 37, 39) sts each side.

BO 3 sts at each neck edge once — 24 (27,
29, 32, 34, 36) sts each side.

BO 2 sts at each neck edge once — 22 (25,
29, 30, 32, 34) sts each side.

Dec 1 St at each neck edge every row
twice— 20 (23, 27, 28, 30, 32) sts each
side.

Work even in patt until piece measures 25
1/2 (26, 26, 26 1/2, 26 1/2, 27)765
(66, 66, 67.5, 67.5, 68.5)cm from beg;
end with a RS row.

Shape Shoulders

Work shoulder shaping same as Back.

SLEEVES (make 2)

With smaller needles and A, CO 44 sts.

Work in Garter st for 5 rows increasing 7
sts evenly spaced across last row — 5 1
sts.

Change to larger needles, work in

Colorwork patt and inc 1 st each side
every 12 (10, 8, 6, 6, 4) rows 2 (10, 12,
8, 20, 7) times— 55 (71, 75, 67, 91,

65) sts

Inc 1 st each side every 14 (12, 10, 8, 8, 6)
rows 8 (3, 4, 11, 2, 18) times — 71 (77,
83,89, 95, 101) sts.

Shape Cap

BO 5 (5, 6, 6, 7, 8) sts at beg of next 2
rows— 61 (67, 71, 77, 81, 85) sts.

Dec 1 st on each side every 4 rows 2 (1,

1, 0, 0, 0) times— 57 (65, 69, 77, 81,
85) sts.

Dec 1 st on each side every other row 14
(18, 20, 20, 22, 20) times— 29 (29, 29,
37, 37, 45) sts.

Dec 1 st on each side every row 0 (0, 0, 4,
4, 8) times — 29 sts.

Work in even patt for 1 row.

BO 3 sts at beg of next 4 rows — 17 sts.

BO in patt.

Finishing

Block pieces to schematic measurements.
Sew left shoulder seam.

Neck Band

With RS facing, smaller needles and A,
pick up and kllO sts evenly spaced
across neck edge.

Work in 1x1 Rib for 4710cm.

2. Amelia Crocheted
Pullover

As seen on page 15

Women’s S (M, L, IX, 2X, 3X):

To Fit: 32-34 (36-38, 40-42, 44-46,
48-50, 52-54)”/81. 5-86.5 (91.5-96.5,
101.5-106.5, 112-117, 122-127, 132-
137)cm

BO loosely in patt.

Sew right shoulder and neck band seam.

Lower Back Vent Edging

With RS facing, smaller needles and A,
pick up and k26 sts evenly spaced
across lower Back side edge.

Work in Garter st for 5 rows.

BO. Rep across other lower Back side edge.

Lower Front Vent Edging

With RS facing, smaller needles and A,
pick up and kl3 sts evenly spaced
across lower Front side edge.

Work in Garter st for 5 rows.

BO. Rep across other lower Front side edge.

Sew top of Vent edges to Pullover.

Sew sleeves and side seams leaving about
4 1/2 ”/l 1.5cm of lower Back and
2”/5cm from lower Front unsewn.
Weave in ends.

Finished Measurements

Bust: 35 (39, 43, 47, 51, 55)”/89 (99, 109,
119.5, 129.5, 139.5)cm

Length: 29 (29 1/2, 29 1/2, 30, 30, 30
l/2)”/73.5 (75, 75, 76, 76, 77.5)cm

Materials

Brown Sheep Company Cotton Fleece
(80% cotton, 20% wool; 3.5oz/100g,
215yd/197m)

4 (5, 5, 5, 6, 6) skeins #CW760 Emperor’s
Robe (A)

3 (4, 4, 5, 5, 6) skeins #CW570 Malibu
Blue (B)

Size G-6 US (4mm) crochet hook

Size H-8 US (5mm) crochet hook OR SIZE
TO OBTAIN GAUGE

2 removable stitch markers

Gauge

16 sts and 16 rows = 4”/10cm in
Colorwork patt using larger hook.

To save time, take time to check gauge.

Designer Notes

Pullover is worked in 4 pieces: Back,

Front, and 2 Sleeves. Neckband is
worked separately and sewn to neckline
afterwards.

Back is 4 1/2 ”/l 1.5cm longer than Front.

When shaping the pieces keep Colorwork
patt as established.

When working Colorwork patt, carry color
not in use loosely along WS of piece
until next needed.

Pattern Stitches

Colorwork Pattern (multiple of 4 sts + 1)

Row 1 (RS): With A, ch 1, turn, sc in first
sc; *with B, sc in next sc; with A, sc in
next 3 sc; rep from * across.

October 2014 I knitstyle • 59

14(15,16,17,171/2,18)'

Row 2: With A, ch 1, turn, sc in first sc,

*sc in next 2 sc; with B, sc in next sc;
with A, sc in next sc; rep from * across.

Rows 3 and 4: With A, ch 1, turn, sc in
first sc; *with B, sc in next 3 sc; with A,
sc in next sc; rep from * across.

Row 5: With A, ch 1, turn, sc in first sc,

*sc in next 2 sc; with B, sc in next sc;
with A, sc in next sc; rep from * across.

Row 6 : With A, ch 1, turn, sc in first sc;
*with B, sc in next sc; with A, sc in next
3 sc; rep from * across.

Rep Rows 1-6 for Colorwork patt.

Sideways Rib Pattern (over any number
of sts)

Foundation Row (RS): Sc in 2nd ch from
hook and in each ch across.

Row 1: Ch 1, turn, working in back loops
only, sc in each sc across.

Rep Row 1 for Sideways Rib patt.

Instructions

BACK

With larger hook and A, ch 70 (78, 86 , 94,

102 , 110 ).

Foundation Row (RS): Sc in 2nd ch from
hook and in each ch across — 69 (77,
85,93, 101, 109) sts.

Work in Colorwork patt until piece

measures 21 1/2754. 5cm from beg; end
with a WS row.

Shape Armholes

Row 1 (RS): Turn, si st in first 3 (4, 5, 5,

6 , 7 ) sts, ch 1 , beginning in same st as
last si st made, work in established patt
to last 2 (3, 4, 4, 5, 6 ) sts; leave rem sts
unworked— 65 (71, 77, 85, 91, 97) sts.

Row 2: Turn, si st in first 3 (3, 3, 4, 5, 5)
sts, ch 1 , beginning in same st as last
si st made, work in established patt to
last 2 (2, 2, 3, 4, 4) sts; leave rem sts

3V2 (4, 4V2, 5, 5V2, 5V2)"

FRONT

1 7V2 (1 9V2, 21 V2, 23V2, 25V2, IThT

unworked — 61 (67, 73, 79, 83, 89) sts.

Dec 1 st each side every row 0 (1, 2, 4, 5,

8 ) times— 61 (65, 69, 71, 73, 73) sts.

Dec 1 st each side every other row 3 (3,

3, 2, 2, 1) times— 55 (59, 63, 67, 69,
71) sts.

Work in established patt until piece
measures 29 (29 1/2, 29 1/2, 30, 30,

30 1/2)773.5 (75, 75, 76, 76, 77.5)cm
from beg; end with a WS row.

Fasten off.

FRONT

Work same as Back until piece measures
17743cm from beg; end with a WS row.

Shape Armholes

Work same as Back armhole shaping until
piece measures 21 1/2754. 5cm from
beg; end with a WS row. Place marker
on each side of center 13 sts.

Shape Neck

First side

Continue armhole shaping same as Back,
while at the same time, shape neck as
follows:

Work in established patt to first marker,
leave rem sts unworked for front neck
and 2 nd side of neck.

Work over first side sts only.

Next Row (WS): Turn, si st in first 4
sts, ch 1 , beginning in same st as last
si st made, work in established patt
across — 3 sts dec’d at neck edge.

Next Row: Ch 1, turn, work in established
patt to last 2 sts, leave rem sts
un worked — 2 sts dec’d at neck edge.

Dec 1 st at neck edge twice — 2 sts dec’d.

Work in established patt until piece
measures 24 1/2 (25, 25, 25 1/2, 25
1/2, 26)”/62 (63.5, 63.5, 65, 65, 66 )
cm— 14(16, 18, 20,21,22) sts.

Fasten off.

1 1Vi pSVi, ^AV2,^5V2, ^ 6 V 2 , U ViY'

* r ’

9V2"

Second side

With RS facing, skip first 13 unworked sts
following first side, join yarn with si st
in next st, ch 1 , work in established patt
across. Remove markers.

Work over 2nd side sts only.

Next Row (WS): Ch 1, turn, work in
established patt to last 3 sts, leave rem
sts unworked — 3 sts dec’d at neck edge.

Next Row: Turn, si st in first 3 sts, ch 1,
beginning in same st as last si st made,
work in established patt across — 2 sts
dec’d at neck edge.

Dec 1 st at neck edge twice — 2 sts dec’d.

Work in established patt until piece
measures 24 1/2 (25, 25, 25 1/2, 25
1/2, 26)”/62 (63.5, 63.5, 65, 65, 66 )
cm— 14(16, 18, 20,21,22) sts.

Fasten off.

SLEEVES (make 2)

With larger hook and A, ch 38.

Foundation Row: Sc in 2nd ch from hook
and in each ch across — 37 sts.

Work in Colorwork patt, inc 1 st each side
every 10 ( 8 , 6 , 4, 4, 4) rows 2 ( 6 , 6 , 2,
8 , 14) times — 41 (49, 49, 41, 53, 65)
sts.

Inc 1 st each side every 12 (10, 8 , 6 , 6 , 6 )
rows 4 (2, 4, 10, 6 , 2) times — 49 (53,
57,61,65,69) sts.

Work in established patt until piece
measures 18 l/2”/47cm from beg; end
with a WS row.

Shape Sleeve Cap

Row 1 (RS): Turn, si st in first 3 (4, 5, 5,

6 , 7 ) sts, ch 1 , beginning in same st as
last si st made, work in established patt
to last 2 (3, 4, 4, 5, 6 ) sts; leave rem sts
unworked— 45 (47, 49, 53, 55, 57) sts.

Dec 1 st each side every other row 8 (9,

60 • knitstyle I October 2014

5 ( 5 ’/ 2 , 6 , 6 , 6 V 2 . 6 V 2 )'

10, 8, 9, 8) times— 29 (29, 29, 37, 37,
41) sts.

Dec 1 St each side every row 2 (2, 2, 6, 6,
8) times — 25 sts.

Next Row: Turn, si st in first 3 sts, ch 1,
beginning in same st as last si st made,
work in established patt to last 2 sts;
leave rem sts unworked — 21 sts.

Rep last row twice more — 13 sts.

Fasten off.

3. Quilted Portfolio

As seen on page 1 6

Finished Measurements

Portfolio measures about 1 1 1/2 729cm
wide X 9723cm long, closed

Materials

Dale of Norway Dale Garn Falk (100%
pure new wool; 1.75oz/50g, 116
yd/1 06m)

3 skeins #2642 Sandalwood (A)

1 skein #3072 Cocoa (B)

1 skein #3418 Burnt Orange (C)

DMC Embroidery Floss (100% cotton;

8.7yd/8m)

1 hank #841

Size 6 US (4mm) knitting needles OR SIZE
TO OBTAIN GAUGE
Size 6 US (4mm) 32780cm long circular
needle OR SIZE TO OBTAIN GAUGE
12730.5cm x 24761cm Pellon® 91 IFF
Fusible Featherweight interfacing
12730.5cm x 24761cm Fairfield Poly-fil®
Cotton Classic blend batting
1 fat quarter (16740.5cm x 24761cm)
Wooly Lady felted wool fabric, (100%
wool): Squash Blossom
1 shank button, 1 l/8729mm diameter

4 stitch markers, 2 stitch holders
60 safety pins

Finishing

Block pieces to schematic measurements.
Sew shoulder seams.

With RS facing, smaller hook and A, join
yarn with si st in left shoulder seam,
ch 1, work 71 sc evenly spaced around
neck edge, si st in first sc — 71 sts.
Fasten off.

Neckband

With smaller hook and A, ch 2 1 .

Work in Sideways Rib patt until piece fits
around neckline, slightly stretched.

Fasten off.

Sew foundation row of neckband to last
row of neckband. Sew neckband to
neckline, placing seam at center of Back
neck. Sew in Sleeves. Sew Sleeve seams.
Sew side seams leaving bottom
6 1/2716. 5cm of lower Back and
275cm of lower Front unsewn for
side vents.

With smaller hook and A, work 1 row of
sc along each side vent edge. Weave in
ends.

Gauge

26 sts and 37 rows = 4710cm in Checks
patt

To save time, take time to check gauge.

Designer Notes

The first and last sts of Checks patt are
selvedge sts.

Portfolio is made to fit a tablet that
measures up to 7 1/271 9cm wide x 9
1/2 724cm long.

After blocking, the piece (excluding
trim) is stabilized with fusible interfacing.

A layer of quilt batting and felted wool
lining is added. Designer recommends
felted wool, because the cut edges do not
have to be turned under. All the layers are
safety-pinned to keep them in place.

The piece is quilted using a hand-sewn
running stitch. Where necessary, the felted
wool lining is sewn to the edges of the
piece.

Designer recommends using gauge
swatch to practice fusing interfacing and
quilting with a running stitch.

Circular needle is used to accommodate
the large number of stitches. Work back
and forth on circular needle as if working
with straight needles.

Stitch Glossary

Running stitch: a hand-sewn stitch,

where the needle is taken up and down
through the fabric, resulting in a dashed
line of stitches.

Ml (make 1 st): Make a backwards loop
and place on RH needle.

Pattern Stitches

Checks Pattern (multiple of 10 sts + 2)
Row 1 (WS): K1 tbl, *k5, p5; rep from *
to last st, si 1 wyif.

Row 2: K1 tbl, *p5, k5; rep from * to last
st, si 1 wyif.

Rows 3-6: Rep Rows 1 and 2 twice.

Row 7: Rep Row 1.

Row 8: K1 tbl, k to last st, si 1 wyif.

Row 9: K1 tbl, *p5, k5; rep from * to last
st, si 1 wyif.

Row 10: K1 tbl, *k5, p5; rep from * to last
st, si 1 wyif.

Rows 11-14: Rep Rows 9 and 10 twice.

Row 15: Rep Row 9.

Row 16: K1 tbl, k to last st, si 1 wyif.

Rep Rows 1-16 for Checks patt.

Instructions

PORTFOLIO

With A, CO 72 sts.

Work Checks patt until piece measures
2 1753. 5cm from beg; end after Row 2
is completed.

Shape Flap

BO 2 sts at beg of next 17 rows — 38 sts.

Divide for Buttonhole (RS): BO 2 sts,
work in established patt 18 sts. Join
2nd ball of yarn, work in Checks patt as
established to end — 18 sts on each side.

Work both sides at the same time using
separate balls of yarn.

BO 2 sts at beg of next 8 rows — 10 sts on
each side. Cut yarn of first side.

BO 2 sts, work in established patt
across — 18 sts.

Finish flap

BO 2 sts, work in established patt
across — 16 sts.

BO 3 sts at beg of next 2 rows, work in
established patt across — 10 sts.

Purl 1 row.

BO.

Trim

Row 1: With RS facing, circular needle
and A, beg at lower right edge, pick up
and k98 sts across right selvedge edge,
place marker (pm), Ml, pick up and
k30 sts across first shape flap edge. Ml,
pm, pick up and klO sts in bound-off
edge, pm. Ml, pick up and k30 sts
across 2nd shape flap edge. Ml, pm,
pick up and k98 sts across left selvedge
edge — 270 sts.

Row 2: (K3, Ml) 32 times, k2, slip marker
(sm). Ml, k3. Ml, (k5. Ml) 5 times,
k4, Ml, sm, klO, sm. Ml, k3. Ml, (k5,
Ml) 5 times, k4, Ml, sm, (k3. Ml) 32
times, k2. Cut A — 350 sts.

Row 3: With B, k to first marker, sm. Ml,
k to next marker. Ml, sm, k to next
marker, sm, Ml, k to next marker, Ml,
sm, k to end — 354 sts.

October 2014 I knitstyle • 61

Row 4: Rep Row 3. Cut B — 358 sts.

Row 5: With C, *k2, sl2 wyib; rep from *
to last 2 sts, k2.

Row 6: *K2, sl2 wyif; rep from * to last 2
sts, k2.

BO.

Finishing

Weave in ends. With WS facing block piece
to measurements.

Cut a piece of fusible interfacing the size
of the Portfolio excluding trim, and
following directions on interfacing fuse
interfacing to WS of piece taking care
not to fuse it over trim.

Cut a piece of quilt batting the same size as
interfacing.

Cut a piece of felted wool as long as
knitted piece, and a little wider (this

will be trimmed later). Place quilt
batting on top of fusible interfacing,
placing cut edge about l/873mm inside
CO edge.

Place felted wool on top of quilt batting,
lining up cut edge with CO edge.

Safety-pin the layers together.

Fold the piece to measurements to form
the Portfolio. Rearrange safety-pins if ^
needed.

Fold the flap over the CO edge to form an
envelope shape.

Carefully trim excess quilt batting if
needed.

With embroidery floss and sharp needle,
beg at CO edge, and using a running
stitch, sew felt edge to knitting, just
inside the line created by the CO edge.

Continuing the running stitch Just inside .

the first garter ridge of trim, sew across
the edges of 3 checks. Rotate the work
to sew across the piece.

Place seaming every 3 completed Checks
to opposite edge.

Sew both sides of buttonhole separately.

The flap will have some edges unsewn.
Seam gaps with running stitch if
needed.

Carefully trim felted wool so its edge is
about l/476mm from stitching at edges
of piece. Cut interfacing, batting, and
felt to open buttonhole. With floss,
stitch around the buttonhole.

Sew button opposite buttonhole.

Fold piece and pin edges of the portfolio
in place. With C, sew side edges closed,
inserting needle under the bound-off
edges for sturdiness.

4. Moto Jacket

Machine Knit

As seen on page 20

Women’s XS (S, M, L, XL)

To Fit Bust: 32 (34, 38, 42, 46)”/82 (86.5,
96.5, 106.5, 117)cm

Finished Measurements
Bust: 34 (36, 40, 44, 48)”/86.5 (91.5,
101.5, 118, 122)cm
Length: 23 1/4 (23 1/2, 24, 24 3/4, 25
l/4)”/59 (60, 61, 63, 64)cm
Lower Hem Circumference: 38 (41, 44,
48, 52)”/96.5 (104, 112, 122, 132)cm

Materials

Zitron Patina Multi (55% wool, 45%
viscose; 50g/120y)

14 (15, 16, 17, 18) balls #5503 Vintage
Quilt (MC)

9”/23 cm separating zipper
4 sew-on snaps, 1/2”

Machine

6.5mm, 150 needles (Silver Reed LK150
was used)

Gauge

23 sts and 37 rows = 4”/ 10cm in Slip/Tuck,
T4

To save time, take time to check gauge.

Designer Notes

Low front zipper cardigan. Purl side is used
as right side with hand-selected slip/
tuck and outside seaming providing
added texture.

Shaped side seams with fitted, set-in sleeve.
Collar forms cowl in front when

overlapped and snapped in place or
makes loose, folded lapels when left
open.

To match seams, place YM on edge stitches
every 26 rows/10.

Read through entire pattern and make
a cheat sheet for your size before
beginning because of the shaping and
patterning.

Machine Knitting Abbreviations

#-0-# . . . stitches on needle positioned
around zero

CAL (R) . carriage at left (right)

EON . . . every other needle

HP holding position

KIR . . . .knit one row
KWK . . .knit, wrap, knit
n, ns . . .needle, needles
RC row counter

T# tension (stitch dial number)

UWP . . . upper working position

WY . ; . . waste yam

YM Yarn Marker

Techniques/Stitch Glossary

Slip/tuck Stitch (14 stX 8 row repeat)

Purl side is right side. Floats created by
holding are tucked when returned
to upper working position to form a
unique, raised chevron.

Set Russel Levers to hold. RCOOO.

Bring 5 ns for each pattern to hold,

centering at #14 left, #1 right, and #15
right, and repeating across row.

Knit 1 row.

Return 2 outside needles of each group to
upper working position, knit one row,
2X.

Return last needle to upper working
position, knit 1 row. RC004.

Bring out alternate groups of 5 needles,
centering at #7 left, #8 right, and
repeating across row.

Repeat 4 rows of pattern. RC008.

Repeat these 8 rows for pattern.

Braided Edge Hem

Cast on WY and ravel cord. Bring required
ns out. With MC and beginning at left,
put loop on first needle to anchor, go
over second needle, under and around
third, back under second and into
hook of first needle. Draw back on
first needle butt to knit stitch though,
making regular stitch size (like T4 size).

Take yarn under second, over third, under
and around 4th, back under 3rd and
into hook of 2nd needle. Knit through
as before.

Continue in this manner across row.

At right, thread MC into feeder. RCOOO.
Bring needles out again and T4, KIR.

62 • knitstyle I October 2014

2Va (2y4, 3, 3V4, 372)'

4 (4, 474, 474, 574)'

972(1074, 11, 12, 13)"

874 (874, 9. 974, 972)"

372 (374, 4, 474, 474)"

Added to Open Sts: Make Braided Edge as
above. Hang open sts, gathering to fit,
knit side facing. Pull through. T9, KIR.
Chain BO.

Added to Selvedge: Knit side facing,
hang selvedge, half outside edge stitch.
Stretch slightly. CAR. T4, KIR. Make
braided edge hem. From right side,
manually knit loose row. Chain BO.

Instructions

BACK

55 (59, 63, 69, 75) ns each side of 0. Make
Braided Edge Hem. KIR. RCOOO.

Begin Slip/Tuck stitch and continue
throughout. Work to RC020.

Shape sides

Using regular 2 -prong tool dec and inc as
follows:

At each side, [dec 1 st, K7R] 8X - 47 (51,
55, 61, 67) ns each side of 0.

Lengthen or shorten here. Work to RCIOO.

At each side, [inc 1 st, K15R] 3X — 50 (54,
58, 64, 70) ns each side of 0.

Work to RC152.

Shape Underarm

At each side, dec:

[BO 3 sts, K2R] 0 (0, 1, 2, 2)X; [BO 2 sts,
K2R] 3 (4, 4, 4, 4)X; [Dec 1 st, K2R] 5
(6, 4, 3, 5)X. - 39 (41, 43, 47, 51) sts
each side of 0.

Work to RC206 (210, 214, 220, 226).

Shape Back Neck

Using shortrow, always wrapping needle at
carriage side for each KWK.

CAR. Set Russel Levers to hold. Bring left
side and to n#12 (13, 14, 15, 16) right
of 0 to HR KWK. At neck side, [hold 1
st, KWK] 4X.

Shape Shoulder

At the same time, at RC215 (219, 221,
227, 231). [Hold 12 (13, 8, 9, 8) sts,
KWK] 1 (1,2, 2,3)X.

Return all 23 (24, 25, 28, 31) shoulder sts
to UWP. KIR.

Remove on WY.

Return left side less n#12 (13,14, 15, 16)-1
left of 0 to work in pattern and shape
left side in reverse.

After removing left shoulder on WY, with
MC, KIR over 32 (34, 36, 38, 40) neck
sts.

Collar

RCOOO. Continue in pattern to RC028.

KIR and remove on WY.

Finish by adding Braided Edge Hem.

RIGHT FRONT

55 (59, 63, 69, 75) ns right side of 0, make
as for Back to RC092. Place YM for top
of zipper placement.

Shape Neckline

at the same time, at RC152, shape
underarm as for Back.

At center Front, [inc 1 st, K3R] 30X; [inc 1
st, K4R] 1 (2, 3, 4, 5)X.

16
15
14
13
12
11
10
9
8
7
6
5
4
3
2
1

14131211 10 9 87654321 12345678 9 1011 121314

l_ I 1

1 4-st rep 1 4-st rep ►

Key

□ needle brought to hold, doesn’t knit, yarn passes over making float
[t] return needle to UWP (stitch knits along with float from previous row)
n purl stitch, side facing on machine

October 2014 I knitstyle • 63

Work to RC188 (192, 196, 202, 208). - 31
(32, 33, 34, 35 -0- 39 (41, 43, 47, 51)

Shape Front Neck

CAR. Hold all left of 0 and to n#8 (9, 10,
11, 12) right ofO. KWK.

At neck, [hold 1 st, KWK] 8X.

Leaving neck sts in hold, without
wrapping, continue to RC217 (221,
223, 229, 233).

Shape Shoulder

[Hold 12 (13, 8, 9, 8) sts, KWK] 1 (1, 2,

2, 3)X.

Return all 23 (23, 25, 28, 31) shoulder sts
to UWR KIR.

Remove shoulder sts on WY.

Bring neck sts back to work. At right side,
stretch out side to top of shoulder and
hang half outside edge of selvedge for
remaining neckline, about another 10
sts.

KIR over all. RCOOO.

Continue in pattern to RC028.

KIR plain and remove on WY.

Finish by adding Braided Edge Hem.

LEFT FRONT

Repeat as for Right Front, reversing
shaping.

Join Shoulder

Hang front, knit (wrong) side facing.

Hang corresponding back shoulder,
putting knit (wrong) sides together.

Manually pull back stitches through front.

T8, KIR.

Chain BO.

Repeat for other shoulder in same order so
chained BO shows on both from front.

Hand stitch collar front to collar back by
hand using half outside edge stitch to
make flat join.

SLEEVES (make 2)

20 (22, 23, 25, 27) ns each side of 0. Make
Braided Edge Hem. KIR.

Work Slip/Tuck stitch to RC008 (010, 012,
012,014).

At each side, shape sides using regular 2
prong tool increase [inc 1 st, K8R] 17X
-- 37 (39, 40, 42, 44) sts each side of 0

Lengthen or shorten here. Work to RC152
(158, 162, 164, 166).

Reset RCOOO.

Shape Sleeve Cap

Using shortrow, always wrapping needle at
carriage side for each KWK.

[hold 2 sts, KIR] 12 (12, 10, 8, 8) X;

[hold 1 st, KIR] 34 (38, 44, 52, 56);

[hold 2 st, KIR] 4X.

RC050 (054, 058, 064, 068), 4-0-4 sts
remain in work.

KIR over all and remove on WY.

Finishing

Join Sleeve to Armhole

37 (39, 40, 42, 44) sts each side of 0. With
knit side facing and using outside half
of edge stitch, hang armhole edge.

centering shoulder seam at 0. Knit
(wrong) side together, rehang sleeve sts.
Manually pull open sleeves sts through
armhole edge. T9+, KIR. Chain BO.

Seam Sides and Underarm

Hang side of Front and Sleeve evenly
without stretching, knit side facing and
using half outside edge stitch. Hang
matching side of Sleeve and Back, purl
side facing, half outside edge stitch.
Bring ns out. Manually knit loose row
and chain BO. Repeat for other side, at
opposite end of machine so chained BO
lays on Front side.

Front Edge

Hold center front from hem to top of

5. Intensity Jacket

As seen on page 30

Sizes

Women’s XS (S, M, L, IX):

To Fit Bust: 30-31 (32-34, 35-37, 38-39,
40-41)”/76-78.5 (81.5-86.5, 89-94,
96.5-99, 101.5-104)cm
Finished Measurements
Bust: 35 (37, 39, 41, 43)”/89 (94, 99, 104,
109)cm

Length: 23 (24, 25, 26 1/2, 28)”/58.5 (61,
63.5, 67.5, 71)cm

Materials

Prism Petite Madison (75% merino wool,
15% cashmere, 10% silk; 100g/372yd)
3 (4, 4, 5, 5) hanks Violetta (A)

collar, to determine ns required, about
120 (122, 124, 126, 128) ns. Make
small diagram, noting needle numbers
and YM to match other side. Complete
Braided Hem Edge Added to Selvedge.

Finish second side same.

Zipper

Pin zipper in place from hem to YM at
RC092. Hand stitch with matching
sewing thread. (Note that Knit ‘n Style,
issue #187 had an article on applying
zippers, for reference.)

Hand sew snaps at each side of top of
collar and 3 inches below, to crossover
and close for cowl. Sew snap at center
front about 2 inch above top of zipper.

2 (3, 3, 3, 4) hanks Rosamund (B)

1 (1, 1, 1, 1) hank Jade (C)

Size 3 US (3.25mm) 40”/100cm long
circular knitting needle (for Finishing
only)

Size 4 US (3.5mm) knitting needles OR
SIZE TO OBTAIN GAUGE
Size 6 US (4mm) knitting needles OR SIZE
TO OBTAIN GAUGE
Size E-4 (3.5 mm) crochet hook
Stitch holders, 3
Stitch markers, 3

Smooth waste yarn for Provisional Cast-
On, several yards

Liquid seam sealant (for securing yam
ends)

Gauge

26 sts and 40 rows = 4”/ 10cm in St st using
smaller needles

22 sts = about 3 l/2”/9cm in Ruching patt
using larger needles
To save time, take time to check gauge.

For step-by-step instructions for Laura's technique, go to
www.knitstylemag. com/issues/201 4/index_l 93.shtml

64 knitstyle I October 2014

Designer Notes

Use Provisional Cast-On to begin each
piece.

Finishing is very specific in order for
jacket to be truly reversible.

For clarity, knit side of garment is
referred to as right side and purl side is
referred to as wrong side. When finished,
jacket is reversible.

Count each pair of C stitches as one
stitch in ruching pattern.

On all decrease rows and when binding
off, work each pair of C stitches together
and treat them as one stitch.

Seams are single crochet worked with
purl sides together. A decorative line of
reverse single crochet is added to the knit
side. The purl side shows normal invisible
seams.

Sleeves may be worn long, or 3/4 length
with cuffs turned back.

Preparation: Make 20 (20, 20, 21, 22)
bobbins of C, approx. 15 yds each.

* insert RH needle into loop on WS of
chain, pick up and knit one st. Rep
from * until desired number of sts have
been cast on.

To remove Provisional Cast-On, beg at end
of crochet chain and carefully unravel
one chain at a time and place each st
onto needle. After chain is removed,
there will be one fewer st on needle
than number originally cast on.

Short Row Shaping

Work the number of sts indicated in the
instructions, w&t (wrap and turn);
return to starting point and work
the number of sts indicated. Work
progressively longer rows as indicated
in the instructions. Work wraps
together with wrapped sts as you
come to them, as follows: Insert RH
needle into the wrap at the base of the
wrapped st from beneath, then bring
the RH needle up and into the st on LH

Pattern Stitches
Ruching Pattern

(multiple of 20 sts + 2)

Row 1 (RS): *S1 2 with A in
front, k8; rep from * to last
2 sts, si 2 with A in front.
Row 2: *S1 2 with A in back,
bring C to back and behind
A, move 2 slipped sts back
to LH needle, with C kl-tbl
second st on LH needle,
then first st, move C to
front, with A p8, si 2 with
A in back, p8; rep from *
to last 2 sts, si 2 with A in
back, bring C to back and
behind A, move 2 slipped
sts back to LH needle, with
C kl-tbl second st on LH
needle, then first st, move C
to front.

Row 3: Rep Row 1.

Row 4: *S1 2 with A in back,
p8, si 2 with A in back,
si 2 with A in back, bring
C to back and behind A,
move 2 slipped sts back to
LH needle, with C kl-tbl
second st on LH ndl, then
first st, move C to front,
with A p8; rep from * to
last 2 sts, si 2 with A in
back.

Rep Rows 1-4 for Ruching
patt.

Techniques
Provisional Cast-On
With smooth waste yarn,

crochet a loose chain several
chains longer than the
number of sts to be cast on.
With WS of chain facing.

4V2 (4V2, 4V2, 5, 5V2)"

4V2 (4V2, 4V2, 5, 5V2)"
5 (5, 5V2, 6, 6)" I

needle, ready to work the st; knit (or
purl) the wrap and the stitch together.

Wrap and Turn (w&t)

(RS) Yarn forward (to the purl position),
slip the next st to the RH needle, yarn
back (to the knit position), return the
slipped st (which is now wrapped),
to the LH needle; turn, leaving the
remaining sts unworked.

(WS) Yarn back (to the knit position),
slip the next st to the RH needle, yarn
forward (to the purl position), return
the slipped st (which is now wrapped),
to the LH needle; turn, leaving the
remaining sts un worked.

I-Cord Bind-Off

Cast on 3 sts at beg of row. *K2, ssk last
1-cord st tog with first st on LH needle.
Slide 3 sts on RH needle back to LH
needle. Rep from * until 1 st remains
on LH needle. BO 2 I-cord sts, ssk.

9(10, 10J1J1V2)" ,

^ i
> 1

October 20 M I knitstyip

„(Vi9'9'ViS 'S)Vifr

m '8 ‘y,L ‘D Vi9 „(8 1 Y 1'9 1 'ViSD S I I jz/,g i -g i V.S I 'S L) I

fasten off last st.

Instructions

BACK

With waste yam, smaller needles, and B,

CO 162 (168, 174, 180, 188) sts using
Provisional Cast-On.

Knit 7 rows.

Short Row Hem Shaping

Next row (WS): K70, pm, k 22 (28, 34,

40, 48) sts, pm, k to end of row.

Short Row 1 (RS); K to second marker,
w&t.

Short Row 2: P to second marker, w&t.

Note: In following rows, when you reach a
wrapped stitch work the wrapped stitch
together with the wrap.

Short Row 3: K to 5 sts past second
marker, w&t.

Short Row 4: P to 5 sts past second
marker, w&t.

Short Row 5: K to 10 sts past second
marker, w&t.

Short Row 6: P to 10 sts past second
marker, w&t.

Continue Short Row Shaping, working 5
additional sts past 2"^^ marker every row
until all sts on both sides have been
worked.

Shape Sides

Continue in St st and dec 1 st at beginning
and end of every fifth row 24
times— 114 (120, 126, 132, 140) sts.

Continue in St st until side edge measures
15 (15 1/2, 16, 17, 18)738 (39.5, 40.5,
43, 45.5)cm; end with a WS row.

Shape Armhole

BO 6 (6, 6, 7, 8) sts at beg of next 2
rows — 102 (108, 114, 118, 124) sts.

Dec 1 st at beg and end of every RS row 6
(6, 7, 7, 8) times — 90 (96, 100, 104,
108) sts.

Dec 1 sts at beg and end of every fourth
row 4 times — 82 (88, 92, 96, 100) sts.

Continue in St st until armhole measures
6 1/2 (7, 7 1/2, 8, 8 1/2)716.5 (18, 19,

20.5, 21.5)cm; end with a WS row.

Shape Neck and Shoulders

BO 4 sts at beg of next 2 rows — 74 (80,

84, 88, 92) sts.

Next row (RS): BO 4 sts, knit until there
are 23 (26, 26, 27, 29) sts on RH
needle, place 20 (20, 24, 26, 26) sts on
holder, join second ball of yarn, knit
to end of row — 23 (26, 26, 27, 29) sts
right shoulder, 27 (30, 30, 31, 33) sts
left shoulder.

Next row: BO 4 sts, purl across both
shoulders — 23 (26, 26, 27, 29) sts each
shoulder.

Next 2 rows: BO 4 sts, work to last 3 sts
on first shoulder, place 3 sts on holder,
work across second shoulder — 16 (19,
19, 20, 22) sts each shoulder.

Next 2 rows: BO 4 sts, work to last 2 sts
on first shoulder, place 2 sts on holder,
work across second shoulder — 10 (13,
13, 14, 16) sts each shoulder.

Next 2 rows: BO 4 sts, work to last st on

first shoulder, place 1 st on holder,
work across second shoulder — 5 (8, 8,

9, 11) sts each shoulder.

BO 4 sts at beg of next 2 (2, 2, 4, 4)
rows — 1 (4, 4, 1,3) sts each shoulder.

BO all sts.

LEFT FRONT

With waste yarn, smaller needles, and B,

CO 106 (110, 114, 118, 124) sts using
Provisional Cast-On.

Knit 8 rows.

Shape Side and Front Edges

Next row (RS): Kl, ssk, k to last 3 sts,
k2tog, kl— 104 (108, 112, 116, 122)
sts.

Continue in St st and dec 1 sts at beg ot
row every sixteenth row 9 (9, 10, 10,

11) times and dec 1 st at end of every
fourth row 54 (55, 57, 59, 60) times
while at the same time when side edge
measures 15(15 1/2, 16, 17, 18)738
(39.5, 40.5, 43, 45.5)cm, beg to shape
armhole on next RS row.

Shape Armhole

Next row (RS): BO 6 (6, 6, 7, 8) sts, work
to end of row.

Dec 1 st at beg of every RS row 6 (6, 7, 7,

8) times.

Dec 1 st at beg of every 4‘^ row 4 times.

Continue in St st and complete front edge
shaping — 25 (28, 28, 29, 31) sts.

Work even in St st until armhole measures
6 1/2 (7, 7 1/2, 8, 8 1/2)716.5 (18, 19,

20.5, 21.5)cm; end with a WS row.

Shape Shoulder

BO 4 sts at the beg of next 7 (7, 7, 8, 8) RS
rows — 1 (3, 3, 1,3, 4) sts.

BO all remaining sts.

RIGHT FRONT

With waste yarn, smaller needles, and A,
CO 93 (97, 100, 103, 109) sts using
Provisional Cast-On.

Knit 8 rows. Switch to larger needles.

Begin Ruching Patt

Next row (RS): With A kl, [join a bobbin
of C and pf&b in next st, with A k8] 10
(10, 10, 11, 11) times, join last bobbin
of C and pf&b in next st, with A k 1 (5,
8, 2, 8)— 11 (11, 11, 12, 12) bobbin C
columns of 2 sts each

Next row: With A p 1 (5, 8, 2, 8), work
Row 2 of Ruching patt to last st, with
A pi.

Work 9 rows in Ruching patt as
established.

Shape Side

Note: Count each pair of C sts as one
stitch. When working decs, work each
pair of C sts as one st and p3tog with
preceeding or following st in A.

Dec row (WS): P2tog, work in patt as
established across — 92 (96, 99, 102,
108) sts.

Continue in patt as established and rep
dec row every 4^ row until front edge
measures 11 (11 1/2, 12, 13, 14)728

(29, 30.5, 33, 35.5)cm; end with a WS
row.

Shape Lapel and Armhole

Note: Lapel and armhole are shaped at the
same time. Please read all instructions
in this section before proceeding.

Next row (RS): With A , k 1, inc 1, work
in patt as established across — 1 lapel st
inc’d.

Work 1 WS row as established.

C inc row (RS): With A, k 1, si next st to
cn and hold in front with A; inc 1 st
with C by lifting the st below next st in
C onto RH needle, si next C wyif; kl
with A from cable ndl, pm, inc 1 with C
in next C st, work in patt as established
across — additional column of C sts
inc’d.

Next row (WS): Work in patt as

established, adding new bobbin of C to
work new column of si sts.

Work 4 rows in patt as established.

Inc row (RS): Work to marker as

established, inc 1 with A, sm, work to
end of row — 1 lapel st inc’d.

♦Continue in patt and rep inc row every
sixth row until 8 lapel sts in A have
been inc’d, then rep C inc row on next
RS row; rep from * while at the same
time when side edge measures 15 (15
1/2, 16, 17, 18)”/38 (39.5, 40.5, 43,
45.5)cm, shape armhole as follows,
working each pair of sts in C as one st:

BO 2 sts at beg of next 4 WS rows — 8
armhole sts dec’d.

Dec 1 st at end of next 2 RS rows — 2
armhole sts dec’d.

Dec 1 st at armhole edge every 4‘^ row
until there are 26 (28, 28, 29, 32)
sts between marker and end of row
(excluding lapel sts and counting each
pair of C sts as one st).

Continue in patt and lapel shaping as
established until armhole measures 6
1/2 (7, 7 1/2, 8, 8 1/2)716.5 (18, 19,

20.5, 21.5)cm; end with a WS row.

Next row (RS): Work in patt as established
to marker, move lapel sts just worked
to holder, BO remaining 26 (28, 28, 29,
32) sts.

SLEEVES (make 2)

With waste yarn, smaller needles, and
A, CO 60 (66, 66, 72, 76) sts using
Provisional Cast-On.

Work in St st and inc 1 st at beg and end
of every twelfth row 12 (12, 13, 13, 14)
times— 84 (90, 92, 98, 104) sts.

Continue in St st until piece measures
about 14 1/2 (15, 15 1/2, 16, 16
l/2)”/37 (38, 39.5, 40.5, 42)cm.

Shape Sleeve Cap

BO 6 (6, 6, 7, 8) sts at beg of next 2
rows— 72 (78, 80, 84, 88) sts.

Dec 1 st at beg and end of every RS row 22
(25, 26, 28, 30) times — 28 sts.

Work even until cap measures 4 1/2 (5, 5
1/2, 6, 6 l/2)”/11.5 (12.5, 14, 15, 16.5)

66 • knitstyle I October 2014

cm; end with a WS row.

BO 6 sts at beg of next 2 rows — 16 sts.

BO all sts.

Cuff

Remove Provisional Cast-On and place 59
(65, 65, 71, 75) sts onto smaller needle.

With WS facing, join A and with larger
needle, purl 1 row.

Begin Rucking Patt

Next row (RS): With A k 2 (5, 5, 8, 6)
sts, [join bobbin of C and pf&b in next
St, with A k8] 6 (6, 6, 6, 7) times, join
bobbin of C and pf&b in next st, with
A k 2 (5, 5, 8, 5) sts— 66 (72, 72, 78,
83) sts.

Next row: With A p 2 (5, 5, 8, 5), work
Row 2 of Ruching patt to last 2 (5, 5, 8,
6) sts, with A p to end of row.

Continue in Ruching patt as established for
30 more rows (8 reps total); end with
Row 1 of Ruching patt.

Join C and CO 3 sts at beg of row. BO all
sts using 1-Cord Bind-Off, treating each
pair of C sts as one st, working sssk
when you come to them.

Finishing

Lightly block pieces to schematic

measurements, taking care not to flatten
Ruching patt.

Join Shoulder Seams

With WS of Left Front and Back tog
and Left Front facing you, beg at left
armhole edge and join B. Work 1 row
sc along shoulder edge, working into a
full st on both Back and Left Front. Rep
for right shoulder.

Join Side Seams

With WS of Left Front and Back tog, beg
at hem edge and join B. Work 1 row
sc to underarm, working 1 sc in every
other row.

With WS of Right Front and Back tog, beg
at underarm and join B. Work 1 row sc
to hem, working 1 st in every other row.

Join Sleeve Seams

Fold Sleeve with WS tog, beg I-cord edge
and join A. Work 1 row sc to underarm,
working 1 sc in every other row. Sew
I-cord ends tog invisibly. Rep for 2"^
Sleeve.

Join Sleeves to Body

Turn Sleeves with WS out. With body RS
out, place Sleeve inside body and align
Sleeve to armhole; pin at underarm and
shoulder seam. With A, work 1 row sc
around armhole, working 2 sts in every
3 rows.

Reverse Single Crochet in seams

Lightly block all seams. With C, work 1
row reverse sc in each sc seam.

Bottom Edge

Remove Provisional Cast-On from Back
and both Fronts and place all sts on
smallest circ needle. Join C and CO 3
sts at beg of row. BO all sts using l-Cord
Bind-Off until 3 sts total remain. Place
sts on holder.

Front and Neck Edges
NOTE: To avoid creating a ridge on one
side when picking up sts along front
and neck edges, do not join yam to
pick up and knit. Instead, pick up sts
onto needle at edge of fabric.

With RS facing and beg at bottom edge of
Right Front use smallest circ needle and
pick up 1 st in every other row along
Front edge, move lapel from holder
onto needle, pick up 3 sts along Back
neck to holder, move Back neck sts
from holder to needle, pick up 3 sts
along Back neck to left shoulder, pick
up 2 sts in every 3 rows along Left
Front edge, move 3 bottom edge I-cord
sts from hem to needle.

Next row (RS): Join C at bottom edge
of Right front. K3, si 3 sts back to LH
needle and pull yam tightly across back,
work I-Cord Bind-Off to top of lapel, k3,
si 3 sts back to LH needle and pull yam
tightly across back, work I-Cord Bind-Off

6. Soft Impact
Capelet- Cowl

As seen on page 32

Sizes

Women’s S (M, L, IX, 2X):

To Eit Bust: 32-34 (36-38, 40-42, 44-46,
48-52)”/81. 5-86.5 (91.5-96.5, 101.5-
106.5, 112-117, 122-132)cm

Finished Measurements
Circumference: 36 (40, 44, 48, 54)”/91.5
(101.5, 112, 122, 137)cm

Materials

Mirasol Nuna (40% merino, 40%
silk, 20% bamboo sourced viscose;
1.75oz/50g, 191yd/175m)

to bottom edge of Left Front. Sew front
and bottom 1-cord ends tog invisibly.

Stabilize Left Front Edge

With WS of Left Front facing, join B at
lower edge, inside corner formed by
I-cord. Working immediately next to
I-cord edge, slip stitch in every other
row to shoulder, taking care not to
pull edge too tightly or loosely. Fasten
off. Join B at lower edge to the left of
first slip stitch row, work second row
immediately next to first. Fasten off.

Weave in Ends

Weave all ends invisibly into seams where
possible. Ends of C can be invisibly
woven into column of C sts on WS
of Ruching patt. Be sure to reverse
direction at least once when weaving in
ends to adequately secure. Place a drop
of liquid seam sealant into the base of
each end where it exits the fabric, and
allow sealant to dry before clipping end.

Block garment lightly.

2 (2, 2, 3, 3) hanks #38 Sea Grass (A)

1 (2, 2, 2, 3) hanks #18 French Navy (B)
Size 4 US (3.5mm) 24”/60cm long circular
needle

Size 5 US (3.75mm) 24”/60cm long
circular needle OR SIZE TO OBTAIN
GAUGE

1 ring stitch marker
Gauge

22 sts and 32 rows = 4”/10cm in SI st
patterns using larger needles
To save time, take time to check gauge.

Designer Notes

Cowl is worked in one piece beginning at
lower edge.

When slipping stitches, always slip them
purlwise.

Pattern Stitches

3x1 Slip St Rib (multiple of 4 sts)

Rnd 1: With A, *p3, kl; rep from *
around.

Rnd 2: With B, *p3, si 1 wyib; rep from *
around.

Rep Rnds 1 and 2 for 3x1 Slip St Rib.

Slip St Stripes (multiple of 4 sts)

Rnd 1: With A, knit.

Rnd 2: With B, *k3, si 1 wyib; rep from *
around.

Rep Rnds 1 and 2 for Slip St Stripes.

3x1 Twisted Rib (multiple of 4 sts)

Rnd 1: With A, *p3, kl-tbl; rep from *
around.

Rep Rnd 1 for 3x1 Twisted Rib.

Instructions

BODY

With larger circular needle and A, CO 196

October 2014 I knitstyle • 67

BO pwise.

(220, 240, 264, 296) sts. Join to work
in the md, being careful not to twist.
Pm for beg of rnd.

Work in 3x1 Slip St Rib for 8 rnds.

7. Broadband
Pullover

As seen on page 33

Sizes

Women’s S (MA-, 1X/2X):

To Fit Bust: 32-34 (36-43, 45-51)”/81.5-
86.5 (91.5-109, 114.5-129.5)cm

Finished Measurements
Bust: 35 (44, 52)”/89 (112, 132)cm
Length: 22 1/2 (24, 25 l/2)”/57 (61, 65)
cm

Materials

Rowan Creative Focus Worsted (75% wool,
25% alpaca; 100g/220yd)

3 (4, 5) balls #0791 Blue Moor Heather (A)
3 (4, 5) balls #01800 True Purple (B)

Size 7 US (4.5mm) knitting needles
Size 7 US (4.5mm) 16”/40cm long circular
needle

Size 8 US (5mm) knitting needles OR SIZE
TO OBTAIN GAUGE
Size 8 US (5mm) double-pointed needles
(for optional waist drawstring)

Stitch holders or lengths of waste yarn, 4
Stitch marker

Gauge

18 sts and 20 rows = 4”/10cm in St st using
larger needles

To save time, take time to check gauge.

Work in Slip St Stripes until piece
measures ll”/28cm from beg.

Change to smaller circular needle and A,
work in 3x1 Twisted St Rib for 12 rnds.

mKmmrnmmmmmmmmm

Designer Notes

Reverse Fair Isle Chart is worked in
Reverse St st. Sts are purled on RS and knit
on WS. Carry floats on the RS of work.

Slip the first st and knit the last st in
every row to create neat selvedges for easier
seaming.

Waist drawstring is optional. To omit,
skip eyelet row and work Back and Front
in St st to beg of chart.

Pattern Stitches

1x1 Rib in rows (multiple of 2 sts)

Row 1 (RS): *K1, pi; rep from * across.
Row 2: K the knit sts and p the purl sts as
they appear.

Rep last row for 1x1 Rib.

1x1 Rib in rnds (multiple of 2 sts)

All rnds: *K1, pi; rep from * around.

10 ( 131 / 2 , 17 )"

Finishing

Weave in ends. Block lightly.

Technique

I-Cord: With two double-pointed needles,
cast on indicated number of stitches,
*knit all the stitches, do not turn work.
Slide all the stitches to opposite end of
needle. Carry yarn tightly across back
of work and knit all the stitches; repeat
from * until I-cord measures indicated
length.

Instructions

BACK

With A and smaller straight needles, CO
80 (100, 120) sts.

Slipping the first st and knitting the last st
in every row, work in 1x1 Rib in rows
for 3/4”/2cm.

Change to larger needles and work in St st,
maintaining selvedge sts, until piece mea-
sures 8”/20.5 cm; end with a WS row.

Eyelet row (RS): SI 1, k3, k2tog, yo,

*k8, k2tog, yo; rep from * to last 4 sts,
k4— 80 (100, 120) sts.

Continue in St st maintaining selvedge sts
until piece measures 14 (15, 16)”/35.5
(38, 40.5)cm; end with a WS row.

Note: When working Reverse Fair Isle
Chart, continue to slip the first st in
every row and beg working chart from
second chart st. Knit the last st in every
row using color indicated on chart.
Armhole shaping is worked at the same
time as chart. Maintain chart patt as
established, aligning sts at beg and end
of row as in previous rows.

Working in Reverse St st, work Reverse
Fair Isle Chart until piece measures 16
1/2 (17 1/2, 18 l/2)”/42 (44.5, 47)cm
from beg; end with a WS row.

10y2(12V2, 14)"

3 (4, 4V2^ "

68 • knitstyle I October 2014

17’/2(22, 26)'

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